Germination, Wicking and Gbiota Beds
I explained that one of the best ways we can defend ourselves is by strengthening the immune system. Gbiota beds were developed to enhance gut biology. Throughout 2020 I simplified the design so anyone can install a Gbiota bed in their backyard. This article answers common questions about germination, wicking beds, and why Gbiota beds are different.
Early Wicking Beds: Simple and Water-Efficient
Around twenty years ago I pioneered wicking beds using a very simple concept: – A lined hole in the ground to form a watertight bed – A pipe at the base to distribute water – A reservoir under the root zone, with water wicking up into the soil These beds were highly productive and extremely water efficient because the soil surface stayed dry, minimising evaporation and deep seepage. Almost all the water applied was used by the plants. However, wicking beds had two key problems: 1. Poor germination on a dry surface 2. Reservoir water turning stagnant and putrid
Germination Problems and a Simple Fix
Because the surface of a wicking bed is dry, germination is usually poor unless you add water at the surface until roots reach the reservoir. With COVID, people wanted fast crops—baby greens and continuous planting—so reliable germination became critical. A simple solution is a surface “leaky pipe”: – Take standard polypipe and cut slots with an angle grinder. – Lay or bury it just under the surface so it sits firmly in the soil. – Block the end of the pipe by folding and tying it. When water flows through, it spreads across the bed, giving even moisture and strong germination. In a pumped Gbiota bed, switching between bottom irrigation and surface irrigation takes seconds. This gives two operating modes: – **Bottom watering (flood and drain)** for maximum water efficiency – **Surface watering** for germination, accepting some evaporation loss
Nutrients and Putrid Reservoirs
My original work on wicking beds began during droughts in Africa, where people were short of both water and nutrients. The solution was simple: – Collect weeds that grow vigorously even in poor soil. – Place them in a lined hole and backfill with soil. – As weeds decompose, they release nutrients as a basic compost system. Water was so scarce that plants drew the reservoir dry. Roots grew directly into the nutrient-rich water and there was no chance for the lower zone to turn stagnant. It was simple, cheap, and effective.
How Wicking Beds Got Over-Complicated
Over time, designs became more complex. Clean stones were added to the reservoir and a cloth barrier placed above to stop roots getting into the water. Stones do not wick, so the system then relies on evaporation and condensation inside the closed space. Moisture condenses on the surface and is absorbed by the soil above. This can work—as long as the reservoir holds clean water, not compost tea. Once nutrient-rich compost tea is added and left sitting still, the reservoir is likely to turn stagnant and putrid. That’s not suitable if your aim is to grow food that supports gut health.
Gut Biology and Compost Tea
My current focus is gut biology because it is central to defending against modern processed foods and infections like the Corona virus. In https://wickingbed.com/2020/03/29/quick-gbiota-beds/ I explain that: – A healthy gut microbiome needs living biology and nutrient-rich compost tea. – Good gut bugs “love” compost tea in the same way many of us love cheesecake. However, any system that allows compost tea to sit stagnant in a reservoir will quickly go bad. Wicking beds with sealed stone-filled reservoirs and no circulation are not compatible with continuously active compost tea. This is where Gbiota beds differ.
What Makes a Gbiota Bed Different?
Gbiota beds are built on one critical rule: Never let compost tea become stagnant — keep it moving. Technically, this is simple: – Use a small pump to circulate compost tea automatically, or – Move water manually if you have the time or willing helpers. Continuous movement keeps compost tea oxygenated and biologically alive instead of putrid.
The Practical Snag: Drainage
Every good idea has a snag. For Gbiota beds, the snag is drainage. Compost tea needs somewhere to drain before it is circulated again: – For in-ground beds, you simply dig a small sump to collect the outflow. – For boxes sitting on soil, you can still dig a sump next to or beneath the bed. – For beds on hard surfaces (concrete, pavers, decks), the bed must be raised so there is enough fall for the compost tea to drain and recirculate. In my quick Gbiota bed article, I focus on in-ground beds because they are the fastest way to grow large volumes of food. They are also the simplest way to manage drainage.
Choosing Between Wicking Beds and Gbiota Beds
If your goal is simply to grow vegetables and you are not concerned about compost tea or gut biology, a traditional wicking bed may be enough. You can place it almost anywhere and enjoy efficient watering. If your goal is to grow vegetables rich in beneficial microbiology to support gut health and immunity, then Gbiota beds are the better option. Use this checklist: – Can you grow in-ground? – Yes → a Gbiota bed with a simple sump is straightforward. – Are you growing in a box on soil? – Yes → you can still dig a sump. – Are you growing in a box on a hard surface? – Yes → you must raise the bed to create drainage height, unless you use steps or a split-level design.
Gbiota Beds and Fighting the Corona Virus
The aim is to get as many people as possible growing fresh vegetables at home. A population with strong immune systems is far better equipped to handle viruses. Growing Gbiota food: – Builds soil biology – Supports gut health – Strengthens the immune system The more people build Gbiota beds and eat biologically active vegetables, the stronger the community’s overall resilience.
Spread the Word
If you found this explanation useful, please: – Tell your friends and online contacts about Gbiota beds – Encourage them to register on the site – Help them build a Gbiota bed in their backyard Stay healthy, Colin Austin
